When we paddled from Tin Can Bay to Urangan in April 2006 neither time nor tide had invited an exploration of the wrecks or creeks along the western shore of Fraser Island. This trip we based ourselves at Ungowa so we could have a relaxed nosey poke around this part of Fraser Island and Sheridan Flats.
Maaroom Creek on the ebb is a stark portend of the significance of tide in this region. The chap who wanted to launch his trailer sailer found the creek at best slightly above ankle deep. Further out channel markers were stranded (in mud) for around 500m. Missing the tide is not a pretty option, for anyone.
The caravan park is an intimate and tidy place much like the rest of the tiny settlement of Maaroom. We pitched on the remaining grass in the midst of upgrades to power, water and concrete slabs for caravans and campers then prepared our evening meal under the nearby open sided shelter. The bird calls gave over to the all night leathery flap and belligerent screeching of flying foxes.
We gratefully accepted the offer to leave cars at the caravan park which is around 200m from the boat ramp. The aim was to be on the water sometime around 8am. Getting away at 9am was fortuitous. Any earlier would have had us sitting on a sand bank instead of skimming across glassy conditions. We were surprised to find the incoming tide continued to push back north of Sheridan Flats. It was not until after a short break on a tiny sandbank, and only then as we approached South White Cliffs, a receding tide gave us some welcome assistance. By then we were heading into a stiffening NW breeze.
Ungowa is north of South White Cliffs. A commanding location marked by an increasingly derelict jetty and wooden ramp accessible from mid tide. The ramp was best approached by walking up the southern edge. The state of the ramp and ongoing erosion of the sand cliffs suggested the area had been subject to heavy weather, possibly ex-tropical Cyclone Debbie.
Ungowa campsite caters for up to 40 people. A large open area demarcated by wooden sleepers annexed the area where we had previously pitched tents further to the south along the cliff tops. With the latest improvements to this site there was no need to bring any chairs or tables. Wet gear and a medley of kayak contents were soon strewn over three of the four generous trestle tables. Each afternoon the empty kayaks were left near the top of the ramp in the shade. Information posters warned about dingos and the need to secure food and bait. The dingo box was in the same place with the mesh doors facing due west. At the 4WD entrance is the toilet with an outdoor tap running into an old sink. The sink and composting toilet are serviced by a rainwater tank. A couple of 4WD called in while we were there but the only critters willing to share the campsite were the little rodents which took up nightly residence in the dingo box.
In the morning we headed north to explore Woongoobla Creek. It meant pushing an incoming tide and NW breeze. A broad ramp lead up to a barren dusty carpark skirted by an apology of trees and shrubs. A notice invited unwanted drinking water to be poured onto a favoured tree or shrub. Hardly a welcome to remember. After 3Km the muddy creek lined by a hedge of mangroves dispersed into a freshwater pool of murky water. Dominated by an orchard of mangroves with an understorey of swathes of large lily, it was far from the poster child of Central Station. Tick. A brisk NW provided a fun sail back to camp for lunch. A walk along the 4WD track and across the sandcliffs was dotted with sprays and spikes of exquisite wildflowers. That was when I found out Di was a former naturalist and she suggested I should join. I demurely suggested that I would be be too fair.
The following day we headed south to have a look at the wreck of the Ceratodus, the log landing, explore some of the area around Sheridan Flats and, once we were near the top of an incoming tide, see how far we could get up Yankee Jack Creek. It was an easy float down in crystal clear water. Large number of trees had fallen onto the shoreline. There were surprisingly few fish. Seabirds were also few and far between. The wreck of the logging barge the Ceratodus was striking. The log landing looked like an interesting place to go for a walk at a later time. Sheridan Flats were pretty unremarkable aside the unexpected sight of a large vessel anchored in one of the narrow passages. The entrance to Yankee Jack Creek was surprisingly broad. It too was lined with mangroves until the water changed to fresh. Our way was barred by a large tree, behind which is a small pool. It was not the grotto I had hoped to find. This area also looked like it had been battered by heavy weather. It also looked like superb croc habitat, probably not a smart place to be poking around in a kayak in the warmer months. We returned Ungowa for lunch. A couple of us went for a walk around the area that used to be the Ranger’s Station and were surprised to find a village of buildings.
The following morning the campsite was shrouded in mist. We had considered returning via a more western route to Maaroom. Reluctant to hazard a guess about tidal depths in those channels and, given the unpredictable flows around Sheridan Flats, we decided to opt for the security of taking the same route back as at least we had some idea as to how much leeway we would have once the tide started to run out.
The conditions were limpid. Mesmeric. We shared morning tea on a disappearing sand bar at the northern end of Sheridan Flats looking out over quiet sparkling shore. We made excellent time with the flooding tide. With plenty of incoming to spare, we lunched on a shrinking sandy skirt of one of the Moonboom Islands. There were turtles and rays off Maaroom. A massive stir in the water close to my boat almost had me wobble out in fright. Mark later followed a dugong, likely the creature I had given an equal measure of fright. We slid up onto picture perfect Sunday beach lined by small children. The timing couldn’t have been any better. Thank you Garth for your assistance and Mark for your superb planning and navigation. Spot on.
